Bridal gowns normally do not correspond to traditional dress sizes. And, sizes can vary from designer to designer. Individual measurements are used to ensure the most flattering fit. Most bridal salons will use a cloth tape measure to take for four measurements: bust, waist, hips and length (with and without shoes). The general rule of thumb is to order the dress that corresponds with your largest measurement. Dresses can be taken in, but not let out.
Your bust measurement is not necessarily the same as your bra size, so it is important to measure. The bust measurement should be taken at the fullest point of your chest with your arms at your sides. The dress length is measured from the base of your neck to where you want the hem of the dress to fall, depending on the length of train you choose. Remember to wear your wedding shoes when measuring the length of your dress. Always wear all undergarments that will be worn during the wedding to determine the proper fit, including the fullness of the skirt if petticoats are to be worn under the skirt.
If you’re ordering your dress and you’re a taller bride, make sure that the dress you order allows for extra length (some dresses do not allow for this). The same rule holds for fuller-figured brides. Your bridal salon may recommend ordering extra fabric if the dress needs to be lengthened or otherwise altered out to accommodate your figure.
Other necessary measurements include inside sleeve length for long-sleeved dresses, arm girth (around the largest part of the arm), shoulder width (from shoulder blade to shoulder blade), waist to hem, low hip (falls seven inches below natural waist), and center back (base of neck to natural waist).
Below are a few helpful tips to give bride’s advice on how to choose the most flattering dress for each bride’s body type:
Short, Petite Brides
•A line, modified trumpet or mermaid style look best because you get the same fullness, but you’re not overwhelmed by the skirt.
•Look for trimming details with vertical style lines that will length your figure.
•Less is more. You don’t want to be overwhelmed by the dress.
•Placement of the veil can add length; wear the veil higher on your head.
•Keep jewelry to a minimum.
Tall, Thin Brides
•Congratulations, you’re among the lucky ones who can wear just about anything that you want!
•Take advantage of your ability to carry off more dramatic skirts, longer trains, and mermaid style dresses. But be wary of too many vertical lines and v-neck detailing that will overemphasize your height and weight.
Tall, Full Figured Brides
•A-line and Empire waists are most flattering
•Light reflection adds weight so be careful of shiny satins.
•Lightweight Shantung, Crepes, or Tulle can reduce bulk.
•Choose silhouettes and design details that minimize your problem areas.
•Keep the bouquet in proportion with your body; not too big and not too small.
•Choose veils that do not have much volume in the headpiece.
•Sleeves in a lightweight fabric can camouflage the arms without adding weight.
If you have a Full Bust
•If you choose to wear a strapless gown, choose a gown with a well-made foundation.
•Choosing a silhouette or style that accommodates bra straps allows for full support.
•Also consider choosing a gown from a designer that offers gowns in a larger cup size.
Coloring
•Choose the color that is most complementary to your skin color, hair color, and features.
•In general, candlelight and ivory are most complementary.
•White is most complementary to olive-skinned brides.
Skirt shapes
•Ball Gown Skirt: fitted bodice with skirt fullness starting near the waist.
•Ballroom: full, tulle skirt
•A Line: fitted through the waist and thigh with fullness below the knee.
•Sheath: unstructured silhouette that skims the body.
•Mermaid: is similar to the sheath, but flares out at the bottom.
Gown silhouettes
•Empire: high under bust seam with less definition.
•Princess: vertical seems over the bust that extends the length of the dress.
•Basque: defined bodice with a drop waist seam
Necklines
•Sweetheart necklines are often a popular choice among brides. They’re referred to as sweetheart neck because they’re shaped like the top of a heart, following the shape of the bust line.
•Strapless dresses can either be straight or sweetheart.
•Off the shoulder looks are just above the bust and the shoulders are bare. For church weddings a wrap should be also worn when donning this look.
•Portrait necklines follow the collarbone, high in the front and back with a wider neckline. This look accentuates the collarbones and shoulders.
•Racerback necklines include a jeweled neckline with arm holes that cut in.
•Halter necklines feature an open back that ties around the neck.
•One shoulder gowns are asymmetrical and more fashion forward.
Gowns with arm holes, with sleeves or without
•V-Neck is a good choice for smaller-busted brides.
•Sweetheart follows the shape of the bust line.
•Portrait and boatneck have a wide neckline covering the chest and collarbone.
•Scoop neck is another choice for smaller-busted brides with a low curved neckline that exposes the chest and collarbone.
•High necklines cover the chest and can extend over the neck.
Popular Fabric Choices for Structured Dresses
•Satin, Shantung, Organza, Faille, Taffeta
Popular Fabric Choices for Unstructured/ Soft Dresses
•Charmeuse, Chiffon, Crepe, and Tulle
Various Lengths of Dresses and Trains
•Street Length- covers the knees
•Tea-Length- between the knee and ankle.
•Ballet Length- to the ankles
•Floor Length- touches the floor.
•Sweet Train- barely sweeping the floor.
•Chapel Train- most popular choice of brides today and trains of a moderate length.
•Cathedral Train- worn at a very formal and elaborate wedding.
Headpieces
•Coronet- wreath resting on head with veil attached.
•Floral Wreath- circle of flowers nestling on top of head with veil attached.
•Half Hat- small hat covering half of crown with veil attached.
•Juliet Cap- small cap decorated with pearls and jewels that fits snugly at the crown with veil attached.
•Mantilla- lace trimmed netting that is attached to a comb and frames the face without veil attached.
•Tiara- an elegant crown adorned with crystals and pearls resting high on the head.
Lace or Fabric
•Alencon- A fine French needlepoint lace of flowers and swirls on a sheer net background
•Battenburg – Lace made by forming loops of linen and connecting them with threads. Patterns may be floral or geometric circles and ovals.
•Chantilly- A floral pattern, sewn with thread and ribbon, on a net backround. It’s named after the northern French town of Chantilly.
•Dotted Swiss – A lace created on a chiffon or fine net with very small circles (dots) of flocking.
•Eyelet- A type of fabric which contains patterned cut-outs, around which stitching or embroidery may be applied in order to prevent the fabric from raveling.
•Guipure – A lace construction produced by embroidering a thread pattern onto a fabric.
•Ribbon – A lace formed by sewing ribbon in a pattern over a fine net background.
•Schiffli- Very lightweight lace on a net background with an all over embroidered design.
•Venise- a type of lace which is heavy and firm with an open background.
Veils
•Blusher – short veil that can be worn over the face.
•Fingertip – most popular, touching the finger-tips.
•Waltz Length – veils that hit calf length.
•Chapel Length- moderate length on the floor.
•Cathedral Length – Long train on the floor.
Suzanne Perron is a New Orleans couture gown designer. She opened her business in New Orleans after working in the fashion industry in New York City for over thirteen years. She has worked with Carolina Herrera, Anna Sui, Chado Ralph Rucci, and most recently Vera Wang. In her New Orleans studio, Perron focuses on making exquisite gowns designed and constructed individually for each client. Suzanne Perron is known for beautifully designed flattering silhouettes – designs that are unique, ethereal, romantic, and feminine.
